Warning: This post is, to an extent, an image dump and not a coherent narrative.
|I mentioned briefly on the 17 Mar 2013 update that I'd removed the studs from the stud welding. That would be for this device, which is pretty cool. This first batch of updates is from somewhere before 17 March.|
|The area for the side mirror was not straight, using this ruler as a straightedge.|
|After first batch of studs.|
|This is an improvement but not good enough.|
|Also mentioned on the 17 Mar 2013 update that I'd corrected a low spot in the dash top; here is the before on the dash.|
|Alternate view without flash|
Next batch of updates is from the transmission rebuild.|
1) Car has never had 4th gear from the day I got it - always popped out of gear.
2) Car has gotten stuck in 3rd twice.
|Not really sure what to make of the throwout bearing. Here is what I pulled out, and AC Delco bearing 88934649 lists as being correct for my application... but it wasn't going to fit here (old bearing had smaller ID than the AC Delco) so I reused what I had.|
|Back to the workbench with the hole in it (new hole further over as the metal shear is in the way for the old one)|
|What a pain it is to get everything lined up.|
|Alternate view of 5/6 and reverse.|
|Had trouble getting the selector pin to line up with the groove in the selector. Here I measured the distance between the pin and the flange.|
|And the equivalent in the stack.|
|I found myself wondering if I'd put the shift links in backward - if the 3/4 link was longer/shorter than the 1/2 link.|
|Marked the 1/2 link.|
|I wondered (and still wonder) if it matters which side of the interlock plate is which. Here the little square logo thing is on top.|
|And now we know: the two shift links are identical. Put it back together and realized that the issue I was having, where 3/4 drops down, can be worked around by pulling up on the 5/6/R linkage (put the shift lever guide bolt for 5/6/R in first so it doesn't come off the interlock plate). Then I could get the shift lever guide bolt in for the interlock.|
|Looks like this transmission has been apart before, and somewhat recently - all of the fork pads looked new, RTV on the case, meaty material on the blocker rings. From the discoloration on the 5/6 gear I'm guessing they tried a torch to help get this off (it was very very difficult to get off and even harder to get back on)|
|When I turned the case upside down to put it on, the magnets fell out. One broke. Don't put broken magnets back in even if you glue them in with silicone.|
|Here is where I took the tailhousing extension off to remove that broken magnet (left the whole one in, of course). Hindsight is good when you have it before you start the car, better to have foresight and not need the hindsight.|
|Transmission in, crossmember installed, all is well...
except that 70 miles after I started driving on it, it got stuck in third
again. Fourth gear works now, but it seemed to "catch" there too
(guessing the keys are borked again). It's started popping out of
second sometimes on engine braking too, which is odd as I didn't tear that
part of the shaft apart.|
Will (obviously) have to pull it all back apart. Might want to think on replacing that throwout bearing this time; know I need to replace that broken magnet, and going to go with a steel 3/4 fork. Money is temporarily tight so not going to be today.
|I mentioned on 17
March that my compressor failed, and a family friend mentioned that he had a larger compressor he was looking to sell.|
This crosses the line from "larger" to "insane".
Old compressor: 1hp, 30g, 6.3 cfm @90psi.|
New compressor: 5hp, 80g, 17.5cfm @100psi.
Think that it's an "Industrial Air of Texas Super Duty B51V80-G23", but if that's the case then this compressor lists at $3500.. so that's probably not it.
|This looks more like something you'd run a Pep Boys
with rather than a garage. It's got all sorts of bells and whistles..
but what it doesn't have is an on/off switch. I assume you're supposed
to just turn off the breaker when you're done for the day. Not
entirely sure what the electrics here do, but I suspect it's got a relay to
it, the pressure switch hooks in at the top (black wires) so I *should* be
able to add a switch.|
Did need to rework the grommets/conduit before I applied power though, this is some bad electrical work here.
And the drain at the bottom was rusted and broken off. Picked up a
remote drain (elbow, pipe, ball valve) at Tractor Supply and was happy to
see how easily I got this old one out. |
New drain, redone power: Time to make air. This thing is LOUD, and it's too big for the cabinet. I think I'll have to expand the cabinet but the wife thinks I should just sell it and fix my CH compressor.
Still need to change the oil in this one.
Go back to the previous day (17 Mar 13)