That can't be right; it's only been six days since my last update.
|As mentioned - the new filler pipe lacks the tab to secure it.|
|Old one looked like this.|
|Now new one does too.|
|The business end of the new tank. Assembly is required.|
|Fuel sender hole is 6.074" or so deep (obvious that the caliper has seen better days)|
|Pump has the baffles so is only 5.752 or so.|
|Instructions are a little confusing, but okay.|
|This was less straightforward. In part, it needs to point out that
if you leave some excess float arm as it shows there. that *will* catch on
the hole and make it really difficult to pull the sender back out and
Also the float doesn't look like that, it was a ball with a halo (like an old-school goldfish bowl) and it wasn't obvious how to put it.
I put it together and adjusted many times - a couple of times I thought I had it but turning the tank over would not read full (I suspect the ball was getting caught on something).
Final setup was with the ball turned sideways. I read 1.4 ohms "empty", and 90.8 ohms "full" (upside down).
Also during the flipping over repeatedly, the tank slid off the stand and landed on its top, scuffing the paint.
|As installed, except without gasket and probably on attempt number seven or so.|
|Pump was also a pain to assemble, although I didn't take a picture of
Big learning here - *install the wiring before you put the pump on the hose if it's this short* - I was sure I was going to break something trying to get the plug into the pump.
|O'Reilly had 18" lengths of J30R9 fuel hose, so I was able to get a start on the vents. In this case there are two and they need to be connected.|
|The joke was required. Fifty years from now perhaps someone will see this and smirk. Probably not though.|
I have a collection of AN fittings. Most of them don't go with the new
setup, some I don't think really went with the old one either.|
Top row (L to R):
Russell 660655 (AN-6 tube sleeves) - I need these
Earl's 5/16 hose to AN -6 adapter - no longer required
Russell 610165 hose end: Nope
Russell 644123 - 3/8 FI fitting to AN -6 (crap, I bought another one of these on Thursday.. guess I have a return)
Russell 660575 AN-6 tube nuts - need these
Russell 640853 (Plastic clip version of the 3/8" FI to AN-6, wouldn't be using this regardless, plus I bought it before everyone figured out that they sucked so this is a bad one)
Russell 648060 - Power Steering to AN-6. This I will probably need.
Russell 640930 5/16" male to -6AN. I never needed this, for some reason I decided the filter had female ports on all three.
Corvette Fuel Filter GF822 Yeah, I'll be using this.
Russell 640940 (two of them!) - more male FI fittings I never needed.
and also two Earl's fittings, a M-M 90 degree AN-6 and a F-F 90.
|This is the filter/regulator I had (pic was so I could validate that it was correct, it is)|
|Pic so I could tell where the tank insulation went.|
|First AN flares.|
I think that if you look really hard at the lower line (which is the return), you can see that it is already kinked. If it's not there, it soon will be (foreshadowing!)
|Fittings installed on the FPR.|
|Added wiring for the sender. Not pictured: I added heatshrink. I've actually got the stuff to create a weatherpak connector for these but hadn't done it here.|
I ran into an issue with the tank strap insulation.|
I am relatively sure that my existing straps were the originals. They are 1 3/16"-ish wide.
The (OER) insulation is a channel with lips, and the channel part is only ~.970" wide, which really fits poorly on my existing straps.
The straps that came with my kit are .964" wide, as if they were made for that insulation.
I had to cut the screws to get the old straps out for this pic, so it's obvious which direction I went.
|So I put the tank in. It's not permanent; I still need to route
the lines, as previously mentioned I kinked one of them so it'll need
redone, and I needed to mark where to drill the hole in the bracket here...
but this feels like progress.|
Also I bought a gas cap.
... and this feels like blurry. The adhesive holding the insulation to
the straps says 24h to cure, so this will sit overnight before I pull it
down to get it finalized.|
Also need to run the vent line, it needs to terminate somewhere higher than the fuel filler which will be a challenge.
|Test fit of the u-joints for the steering. They fit, and there's no issue with header clearance (even if it does look like the top one there is hitting)|
I put the Lokar e-brake cable on on one side, and couldn't get it to tighten
down on the LT1 bracket.|
I think this is the reason - this is with the nylock nut tightened all the way down, and there is probably twice the gap between the nut and the flange that those brackets take. I suspect a lockwasher is my answer.
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