Most of the issues I mentioned last time have been resolved.

• The clutch disengaging was resolved with a longer ball joint.
• Parking brake cable had popped off the pass side parking brake

	Went ahead and drove it down to the inspection place (last year for inspections in Texas, unless you're in a county that requires emissions (which I am) and your car is not exempt from emissions testing (which this is)). The drive was... harrowing.  The rubbing and scraping were nerve-wracking, the car wouldn't idle at stoplights, the speedometer only reads ten miles per hour (regardless of speed), and the brakes are not particularly effective.
Regardless, it passed safety inspection.  They had time to do an alignment as well (which is good, because it really needed it) While it was on the rack, the first thing we noticed was that a lot of the rubbing and scraping was the rear shocks hitting the little splash-shield things on the rear axle.  Since it was a 4-wheel alignment, they adjusted the pinion down a little and that moved the shocks away from the shields.
I knew it needed an alignment.
	Final numbers are pretty close to what I asked for.
Next item on the list: The tach looks to be reporting half the correct RPMs. Per the instructions, the two dip switches should be set to UP-UP for an 8 cylinder, but for LS usages it should be set to 4 cylinder, switches UP-DOWN.  Definitely shouldn'e be set to DOWN-UP for 6 cylinder.
	.. but the only way I got the correct reading is to have the switches set to DOWN-DOWN, which shouldn't even be valid.
Of course, I had to drop the dashboard to get the tach back in there correctly.
	Time to work on the binding in the steering column (because it's most disconcerting). Took the wheel off and it looked like this plastic cover was broken and possibly in the way.  Spoiler: it was broken, but not the problem.
The trim ring had actually recessed itself into the column and was rubbing on the inside edge.
	You can see here where it was rubbing.
I tried just grinding the edge of the trim ring down so it'd clear.  It did not go well.  Luckily I had a spare. Put some washers between the column adapter and this ring, hopefully it'll keep enough space to not bind up again... and if it does, I know how to fix it without pulling the column.
	Another issue while it was apart was on the way back from the inspection, the turn signal lever stopped "latching" in the right-turn position. I could not figure out how to get this apart so will worry about it later.

• The column is back in the car.
• New problem:  With the column back in the car, if the car is running and you turn on the high beams, the car dies.  I do not know what the resolution for this was, it fixed itself during my troubleshooting.
• There is an issue with the driveshaft.  I can see where it's rubbed on <something> roughly where the brace for the inner seatbelt mounts are.  I do not know if it rubbed before the rear axle was asjusted or after.  Felt around and don't feel anything obvious that could be hitting it.  I put some paint on the rub marks so I can see if they're continuing or not. I <think> I had a "tall" transmission mount (edit: I did, I replaced it with a short one here.  Wonder if the problem was resolved at that point, and this is old rubbing) and if it's still rubbing I could maybe get a shorter one, or they talked me into upgrading to a 3" driveshaft when I got it; the 2 1/2 would likely be less of an issue.
• Played with EFILive a little and got it where it'd idle. 
• Then I went to set up for wideband tuning - dug out the Innovate LC-1 that I've had for ~20 years (goes well with the 20 year old EFILive hardware, I imagine)
• Hooked it all up, and EFILive says 0.0 AFR or 0.0 volts on the external, depending on how I ask it
• Went to look at the raw data through the LC-1 software, and my USB-to-Serial cable has failed.  Ordered a new one.
• New USB-to-Serial, now I can get to the LC-1 software.  Wild fluctuations - 7-to-20-to-7, etc.  Assuming it has failed (although that could be perfectly normal).. ordered a new one, and LC-2 since LC-1 is out of production.
• New LC-2 with new USB-to-Serial, go in and tell the hardware to report 2v on channel 1 and 3v on channel 2.  Confirmed output with a multimeter.
• EFILive reports 0.0v.  Lots of back and forth with the EFILive support folk... and the result is that my hardware has apparently failed, and the upgrade path from the FlashScan v1 to vx closed years ago.  Ordered an HP Tuners HPVI3, with ProLink - not because I think it's better, but because almost all of the tuning tutorials I see on YT are with HPT and not EFILive.
• Now I'm getting to learn how to use HPT.
• I got a steering column tool to get to the bolt for the turn signal.
• The speedometer only reporting 10mph is presumably because it's not calibrated - instructions here give the process.  I need to find a 2mi route to use to calibrate; not quite ready to take this thing on the highway yet.  Oddly enough, it does seem to be counting miles on the odometer still though.
• Car is inspected, insured, registered, and has license plates... so I'm proper dangerous.

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