12 Jun 2020

This is not such a documented-progress-post. Some doesn't need photos, some I just didn't think to take any. Electrical is hard to document forward progress.
I got the driveshaft (3.5" with 1350 series u-joints front and rear) from a local shop.
Wires from ECU to interior (C220 and C230 plugs) have been run but the length may need attention and they definitely need wrapping.
Yeah, sorry, didn't tell you to put the clutch in for my gear shifting.

The side mirrors - when I pick them from a junkyard - have about a 45 degree angle on the mounts (both sides).
PCV hookup was a concern.  I'd found suggestions on the web about converting to the LS6 valley pan that required cutting up the existing hose, etc.  Good idea but only if you actually have the old hose.

This is Dorman 46036 for a 2000 Ford Expedition.  It fits great.
Inside part of the AC box has been mounted.
One-man bleeding of brakes and clutch.

I am not convinced that the clutch is properly bled though; with that dual-disk McLeod clutch I had expected a much firmer pedal out of it.

Have confirmed that my brake leak has been corrected by replacing the caliper.
. The clutch pedal sits (sat) far lower than the brake pedal.  Also the through-hole was 1/4" but the existing holes in the clutch pedal were 5/16.

I'd thought to try to find a rod end with a larger through-hole and longer threaded shaft.  I failed.

Instead, I found directions that specified making my own 1/4 hole in the pedal arm, so I did that.  I also adjusted the brake pedal to be much lower.
With the driveshaft in, no reason to not fill the transmission and put the cover on.

These are really for my benefit rather than yours (okay, to be fair, everything about this website was for my benefit).

I'm using most of the 50 year old AC/Heater controls.  I need to update my wiring diagrams to match.

The orange relay feed wire in the first pic is replaced by the red wire from the Camaro blower relay.  The brown wire in the sixth pic (four pin connector with only three pins) is the power feed for the whole assembly; it connects to the equivalent Camaro brown wire.
When I wire up a quick-disconnect for the dashboard, these are the inputs I need.
I will be cutting up my existing dashboard and creating a metal insert.  Cuts go at the outboard edges of the red tape.  Hopefully I won't end up regretting this.

I did go ahead and pick up a volt gauge.
The Tremec app seems to be OK with my driveline angles.
Finally got the broken glove box lock out.  It's a shame to have to sand this down with that fancy pinstriping (from the 80s!) but it's not in good shape.

Also need to replace one of the mounting studs (#10-24, it appears).
(no pic): I bought a battery, and then had to go buy some extended-length side mount battery bolts.  
All this, however, pales in comparison to the big news:

With the new battery the car cranks over just fine with the key, and also I can very quickly connect to the PCM with EFILive.

The fuel pump relay doesn't energize, which requires troubleshooting still.

If I manually trigger the relay I get up to the appropriate 58psi of pressure (and get a fuel leak, which I have corrected)

With fuel pressure and this new battery, it still spun with the key but did not try to fire.

One Crank Relearn later, it tried to fire.  And then succeeded.  It did not run well - open headers and I suspect one or more of the injectors has gummed up over the past fifteen years, and it's relearning everything - but it did run.

I tried to get a pic last time but couldn't get it to come out during the previous update - I'd wondered if I'd punched through the boss above the oil filter to mount the oil pressure line.  The pic showed that apparently I had, the fitting was threaded into it.  Was it punched through though?  Did not know.

Unrelated: I do have oil pressure.  I know this because I did not put an oil pressure line on, and sprayed a lot of oil around.  I need to add oil to the engine now, I bet I lost a quart.

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