I hope you wanted to see pictures, because I have several. This is a couple of weekends worth of updates because I didn't post the stuff from last week.
|Coated the inside of the driver's cowl with Nason Chassis Black in preparation for installing the cover.|
|Passenger side seems to fit really well out of the box.|
|Of course, first there's the rust to take care of.|
|Here I've cut the rusted out portions away, as well as a square that was rusted through the inner panel.|
|Inner panel square repair complete.|
Everywhere that there was rust here, I found the expanding foam that I'm now
going to call "rustfoam".|
Folks, please don't use this stuff on your car.
|Coated the inside of the pass cowl with POR-15.|
I found a post on Chevelle Tech from 2002 talking about POR-15 where I shared the suggestion the POR rep had given about putting a couple of screws in the lid rather than opening the can. In that post, I mention that it had been 2 years since she'd told me that... which puts this can of POR-15 at 13 years old. Guess her suggestion works, although if I'd been opening the cans I'd have bought quite a bit more since then.
|I'd mentioned the vacuum hose for the cowl flap thing. Here's the hose with grommet.|
|Here, in the shadow, is the hole that grommet goes into.|
|Driver's side primed and seam-sealed.|
|They say that it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert in something.
Obviously I've spent quite a bit less than that welding - my welds are ugly
and have huge beads... but I get good penetration and they do hold the metal
So the realization that I had here is: it doesn't matter. They're fine being ugly. I don't even have to grind the beads down much, here.
|I am also apparently not good at applying seam sealer. However, I appear to have had practice doing finger-painting.|
|I did coat the inside of the panel with Chassis Black before doing these welds.|
|Weld beads smoothed a little.|
|Seam sealer applied. Guess on this side I'm seam sealing before priming.|
|Moving on to the interior.. yes, I will need to replace the rear part of the pass pan. I've got serious rust around the drain plug thing.|
|Additionally, there are some holes forward of there.|
|Behind the brace on the back wall: A pile of seam sealer covering a mound of Rustfoam.|
|The big mound here next to all the rust holes: More Rustfoam.|
|Here is where the Rustfoam was on the front - you can tell where it was because there's no metal there now.|
|Cut out the rust.|
|Cut cut cut.|
|Ok, rust cut out. Make a patch.|
|Coat the patch with something on the outside so it won't rust. Stop rust repair here so paint can dry.|
|Some additional rust found on the rear kickpanel thing.|
|Seems to go through to the door jamb.|
|The vacuum-operated flappy thing from the pass kickpanel has tested successfully - vacuum makes it open, lack of vacuum makes it close.|
Similarly, the flap-thing from the cowl moves with vacuum. |
|The Harbor Freight wheel dollies appear to give about 2 1/4" additional clearance from the ground.|
|This means that my 9.5" crossmember clearance is actually 7 1/4" from
the ground.. found a couple of posts on Pro-Touring.com where people are
talking about 3-4" crossmember height... no wonder my UCAs are hitting the
frame - my ride height is way too high!|
The spring adjusters are set to halfway already - guessing I need to cut the top portion of the adjusters down by about 2.5-3 inches when I pull the front suspension all back apart.
|And, of course, it wouldn't be a day with the El Camino if I didn't find some more rust (beyond the door jamb and rear pass pan) - this is driver's side behind the rear window.|
|Looks like the dome light also needs to be replaced (not particularly surprising)|
Go back to the previous day (24 Jun 2013)