Given last time's hijinks with trying to get the crossmember out, you might hope that the plan with lifting the body was successful.

It was not.  

	Here is where we left off.  The transmission is in the way of the crossmember coming out, and the crossmember is in the way of the transmission coming out (plus, not that I realized it yet, the exhaust is also in the way.  When I said it didn't need to get dropped, I was wrong.)
I bought the fancy transmission jack from HF that I thought would fix everything.  The board on the left is jammed between the frame and the body to create more room for the crossmember.  That didn't help at all.
	So, it's time for the sawzall (which worked really poorly, and I had to change to a cutoff wheel in a die grinder)
And after cutting the crossmember almost in half (and dropping the exhaust), I was able to get it out. This is emphatically not the correct way to do this.

Not pictured: the easy removal of the transmission once the exhaust and crossmember weren't an issue.

Also not pictured: trying to get decent measurements of the gap - the fingers on the pressure plate to the bellhousing, and the collapsed (no spring) distance between the throwout bearing and the transmission face.  Mainly not pictured because I really needed three hands to get the measurements, and a fourth for the camera.  I am not convinced that my measurements were correct; some of them seemed to indicate that the old clutch would have been slipping because there was a negative gap.

I got a measurement that said that about .060 would be correct; since the shim pack had an .063 shim, that's what got used.  Fingers crossed.  YOLO.  At least at this point I know exactly what - and what not - to do to change it.

The new HF transmission jack actually made the installation pretty easy.  Or perhaps it was realizing that if the bolt holes lined up, there was no downside to starting the bolts - and then just shake the transmission until the gaps closed up.  Either way... transmission went back in quick.

	But I had to fix what I'd done.  Welding thick metal actually seemed to go pretty well for me.  Started with some tacks where I could tell things were lined up, then bolted it in and adjusted more from there (and tacked from under the car)
Unbolted it for finish welding all the way around.
	...and rattlecan restoration (which just wouldn't dry, so I let it sit overnight)
I suspect the vibration I was feeling at highway speeds was here, where the crossmember was contacting the floor patch.  A prybar lifted the floor enough that there no longer is any contact.
	I'm a little disappointed here - the white is high-dollar VHT header paint that's come off all over the place; the silver is cheap barbecue grille paint that seems to be holding up just fine.
When I did first-drive and we had to adjust the rear axle to move the shocks away from the mounts, I had worried that I'd created a vibration with bad driveline angles.  The Tremec app says no, I'm good.

Still to do (specific to this issue):

• Bleed the clutch
• Fill the transmission
• Remount the shifter
• Remount the shifter boot
• Remount the console

.. but I suspect I'll spend some time feeling around for the seat heater and door lock wires first.