So I saw a TV show last month. The host was talking about doing rust repair using a TIG torch and bronze rods. The gist was that you can fill holes easily since the bronze has such a low melting point compared with the base metal. I bought two packs of rods - some Silicon Bronze TIG rods (3/32, I think) and some plain bronze brazing rods (3/16 or thicker). Yeah, that went poorly. All I accomplished doing was making the holes bigger. The TIG rods worked better than the brazing rods (surely no surprise).
Additionally - I got a new cell phone, tried using the camera from that. Won't be doing that again; these pictures kinda suck. The thumbnail-creator I use has been making some horrible looking thumbnails, too. I'll look into a better program there.
So here's what I started with. The holes are in the package tray on
the inside of where the back window goes. |
I have not found where the leak was that allowed all the water in, but the seal for the window seemed to be pretty old.
|Alternate view of the holes. I successfully filled one, and made several others much larger than they were when I started. I know this is not structural and it'd be safe to fill with something other than new metal - but that's not the way I want to do things.|
|So after trying to clean up the rust-holes, I sanded the flat panel below the window. I knew I had drilled some holes for the front attachment on the tonneau cover, but what I found surprised me: about six separate other sets of holes for tonneau attachment, filled with some sort of caulking or bondo. All of these will get welded up.|
|So I figured out why the bandsaw keeps throwing the band (other than being a cheap HF saw): there are several places on the blade where there are no teeth. When it hits one of those areas, the blade stops and comes off the pulleys. I've known I needed a better blade, now it's confirmed. I don't like the way it twists the blade 45 degrees offset for the cutting surface either, perhaps the whole saw needs to be adjusted - I don't need the setup where the saw can be lowered onto a piece of metal.|
|So I cut the mounting points for the pedals (with the band saw) so they'd fit the adjusted column mounts. Got them reassembled, lubed, and mounted as shown here.|
|So the ATS clutch master bracket mounting holes don't QUITE fit the A-body pedals - which surprises me, but is simple enough to correct.|
|Of greater importance - I am going to have to rethink the master cylinder, or at least the ABS system -- I cannot reuse the lines that the donor Camaro/TA had as they put the ABS box in the PS pump. I can probably just make new lines but I think that somebody mentioned that an S10 MC has the same piston diameter but has the ports on the driver's side of the MC.|
|So this is a picture of the sail panel inside. I am assuming that this bracket is what a shoulder belt would attach to - but I've got two threaded holes around what I would think was the belt attachment unthreaded in the middle. Anyone know what bolts here?|
|Next up, the column-base-trim was wrapped around the steering column to properly locate the shaft at the firewall. Still need to screw everything together - and will have to cut a hole for the clutch pushrod, but this is progress.|
|And then a reminder occurs: I've got some rust issues on the windshield
And both cowl sides. And the driver's side floor. And my crappy repairs to the bed 10+ years ago.
|Really I need to sand down the whole firewall, or at least this side, before mounting things.|
So that's where I stand: 1 step forward, 2 steps back. At least it's progress, of a sort.
Trans-Am buyer flaked (wish I could say I was surprised) so no influx of money to buy parts. Plenty to do without more parts though.
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