The saga of the shift knob

I tried removing the 15 degree built-in slant:
	Alternate view
With this, and some additional bending, I think we're close.
Second gear, plenty of clearance
	Fifth gear, also plenty. Bent the handle a little bit back towards me as well.
Bought a cheap shifter boot off Amazon and adapted it:
	Before buttoning it all up, connected the USB port in the console to the radio

	As previously mentioned:  I need to get these ports (Sanden SD7)
adapted to these ports (2000 Trans Am). Vintage Air told me that my only real option was to return to stock GM or use their complete kit.  Neither option were acceptable.
Challenge one: Nobody (that I could find) makes the adapters to connect standard hoses to this.
I'd thought to just use AN hoses but the internet says the freon will permeate the shell and leak out.
I do have the old lines, I can use those.  I'd thought to weld on the correct ends, except that my welds would be horrible and probably leak.
I'd come up with a plan where I would modify a GM drier, but I'd have to do that every time I replaced it.
An epiphany occurred: I can't use AN *hoses* but I can use AN *fittings*, they're not permeable
I bought the Vintage Air drier kit that comes with a drier and a bunch of beadlock hose ends (and I bought a crimper)
	Let's modify the existing lines!  This holds the trinary switch and the orifice tube, I need both of those.  Cut after the switch mount. The line here is .375" - 6-AN size.
Flared it, and now it's a 6-AN port.
	The #8 hose from the coil needs to go to a #6 AC port for the drier.   There are more places than I'd like in this process where I need to adapt sizes - the AN fitting at the trinary switch won't actually be used there; that'd be the #10 hose from the compressor that goes there.  The 8AN->6AN adapter threaded in will actually go on the beadlock fitting on the hose there. That hose is the old hose from the original drier.
I don't really like the way the straight fittings fit on the condensor, I'll have to use angled and figure out how I want to run them.  More importantly here - my condensor is upside down.  The small port should be on the bottom, says the internet. Here as well, the port on the condensor is a #8 and I'll have to neck it down to a #6 before it gets to the drier.
	Angled fittings fit better but it's still upside down.
Removed, before swapping brackets around.  This was more for my reference than for yours.  As previously mounted, the top pass side corner is bottom left (old front edge is down)
	With the mounts swapped around
Repainted the hood latch while I was at it.  It got stuff on it.

Notched where the ball needs to be based on the length of the stock wiper arm
	Ready to run a low-quality bead.
Needed to clean up the edges so it didn't hit the inside of the cowl.
	Mounted (inside view).  This is the parked location.
Mounted (outside view)
	They work (action shot).  I did not put a stop for the park mechanism in there, it already goes back to the correct place. So far as I know, wipers are done.
With the wipers done, I could put the hood back on.

Other things:

The Chevelle has been uncovered and is (im)patiently waiting its turn in the garage.

I had to replace the batteries in everything this month. The battery in the Camino was a low-end Walmart battery that I had very little faith in, so when the gate across the driveway needed a new battery, I offered that one up. Then the battery in the Vette went bad.  I had no expectations, so went ahead and bought an Optima to replace it... then I saw the "30 month free replacement guarantee" and the datecode of 27 months ago.  I had low expectations of Interstate's warranty - especially after the local Firestone wanted to see a receipt before they'd even entertain the idea.. but I ended up at one of their Battery Centers and they did a quick check and just handed me a new battery, with the full 30 month warranty on it. It's top post and not side threaded like the old one but I think this is probably more appropriate for the car anyway.

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