derekf.com

3 Feb 2019
Tunnel

Let's get started with this oddly-shaped hole. I found that aluminum tape - the heavy duty stuff you'd use on ducting - works wonderful for making a pattern.

Tacked in.

Looks damn near like the same image.

So I'd been worried about transmission angles and driveshaft clearance - I'd seen a video on someone's tunnel mods and they'd not needed to go all the way back. Let's start with checking angles.

This is on the frame, which I would *assume* is a level plane to compare everything else to. This is the driver's side, so the frame is pointing one and a half degrees (give or take) down towards the front.

From the passenger side, and the magnetic base on the output shaft flat, it looks like we're about 2 1/2 degrees *up*. That won't do. There is a quarter inch spacer in the transmission mount though, we can remove that.

The driver's side front tire was flat when the initial measurement was taken. Aired up now, looks more like one degree down in the front.

Now the transmission shows 4 1/2 degrees down. Possibly more than we'd like, not positive I trust the reading though.

With no other changes, the balancer says we're two degrees down (well, plus one degree for the frame) so 3 down.

Regardless, it looks like there's going to be plenty of clearance for the driveshaft - this is how much higher it is when it contacts the underside of the body.

The little dip below the shifter does not line up with any of the plans and so needs to be cut out (in progress here)

And... removed.

(And... blurry)

My first plasma cut! That's harder than it looks, the cuts were horrible.

The pattern wasn't quite right neither - hard to fake it for the curves.

I used 16ga steel for this - this will NOT be weak. Can't really bend it by hand though, so it's the tack-and-bend-and-tack-and-bend method.

I'm apparently still a horrible welder.

Mostly in place on the pass side.

Yes, removing the transmission will be difficult; possibly impossible without pulling the engine. I do still need to replace the body bushings though, which will give a little more standoff.

Driver's side will require some trimming before it can go any further.

This is the point where I ran out of shielding gas, and did not get to the gas dealer in time.

I want to finish up the tunnel, then on to the back wall of the cab! Not until I get more gas though.

Go back to the previous day (19 Dec 2017)

	Let's get started with this oddly-shaped hole. I found that aluminum tape - the heavy duty stuff you'd use on ducting - works wonderful for making a pattern.
Tacked in.
	Looks damn near like the same image.
So I'd been worried about transmission angles and driveshaft clearance - I'd seen a video on someone's tunnel mods and they'd not needed to go all the way back. Let's start with checking angles. This is on the frame, which I would assume is a level plane to compare everything else to. This is the driver's side, so the frame is pointing one and a half degrees (give or take) down towards the front.
	From the passenger side, and the magnetic base on the output shaft flat, it looks like we're about 2 1/2 degrees *up*. That won't do. There is a quarter inch spacer in the transmission mount though, we can remove that.
The driver's side front tire was flat when the initial measurement was taken. Aired up now, looks more like one degree down in the front.
	Now the transmission shows 4 1/2 degrees down. Possibly more than we'd like, not positive I trust the reading though.
With no other changes, the balancer says we're two degrees down (well, plus one degree for the frame) so 3 down.
	Regardless, it looks like there's going to be plenty of clearance for the driveshaft - this is how much higher it is when it contacts the underside of the body.
The little dip below the shifter does not line up with any of the plans and so needs to be cut out (in progress here)
	And... removed. (And... blurry)
My first plasma cut! That's harder than it looks, the cuts were horrible. The pattern wasn't quite right neither - hard to fake it for the curves. I used 16ga steel for this - this will NOT be weak. Can't really bend it by hand though, so it's the tack-and-bend-and-tack-and-bend method. I'm apparently still a horrible welder.
	Mostly in place on the pass side. Yes, removing the transmission will be difficult; possibly impossible without pulling the engine. I do still need to replace the body bushings though, which will give a little more standoff.
Driver's side will require some trimming before it can go any further. This is the point where I ran out of shielding gas, and did not get to the gas dealer in time.